Why Simplifying Your Skincare Routine is Essential: The Science Behind My Daily Trio

If your bathroom shelf looks like a supermarket aisle - eight serums, three masks, two exfoliants - and your skin still feels dull, tired or stressed, you’re not imagining it.  In fact, you’re probably doing way too much. The truth is that our skin does not respond to complexity the way we imagine. There was a period of time when a number of notable brands (I’m not naming names!) produced products with single key ingredients and encouraged unsuspecting consumers to become the alchemists of their skin - mixing things that shouldn’t be mixed, to ensure a 27 step Korean routine was going to significantly improve your skin. The reality is decidedly different.

The key thing to realise is your skin is a physiological organ (indeed, the largest organ of the body, by surface area), with its own physiology and homeostatic (balancing) mechanics.  As such, it will respond to things in various ways to restore its own balance.  The truth is, the skin has its own mechanisms to repair damage, reduce oxidative stress and thrive, and fairly often this basic understanding is ignored when it comes to skincare. The truth is - skincare should be there to support these physiological balances, not work against them,

When I created my Daily Skin Trio, I did so out of regular clinical observations that patients were confused about skincare and being oversold on extensive use of actives that seemed to create more barrier disruption, more irritation, more confusion about what was working and what wasn’t. So rather than invent a new and confusing ’12-step’ routine as most other medically-led brands were doing at the time, I asked: what are the key biological functions every skin needs to stay healthy as it ages, what are the ingredients that have strong evidence bases for supporting the key physiological and homeostatic mechanisms of the skin, and how can these be combined in a way that makes it easy for people.

I’ve always subscribed to the idea of ‘less, but better’, the German industrial designer whose rigorous aesthetic shaped everything from Braun appliances to the pocket radio that inspired the Apple iPod. His idea wasn’t about austerity or doing without, but about paring things back until the essential (the intelligent, the functional, the beautiful) remained, in as simple and considered a format as possible. That concept resonated deeply with me and aligned with my training in the NHS.  In medicine, as in design, the best outcomes come not from doing more, but from doing the correct amount: precisely, purposefully and with understanding.

Simplicity, when it’s done properly, is a refinement: the removal of noise to reveal what really matters.  When I created the Daily Skin Trio, I wanted to distil skincare back to its biological fundamentals and rebuild it from a position of scientific clarity.  This was always about efficacy rather than minimalism. I wanted people to get the maximum benefit in a way they could understand, adhere to over the longer term (skincare, regardless of what any brand says, takes at least to really affect the skin’s physiology) and know they are getting the most cutting edge, considered formulations that would create a notable difference in their skin over time.

The formulations themselves took years to refine. Every texture, ratio and active was deliberately considered so that each product could perform several sophisticated actions simultaneously, without ever feeling complicated to use. The aim was to create what I think of as ‘complex formulations, simple solutions’ - the philosophy that underpins our entire range. It’s the quiet confidence of knowing that the work has already been done for you; that what sits in the bottle is the result of clinical evidence and biochemical reasoning in an intelligent and considered way.

The Biological Bedrock of Skin Ageing

Ageing of the skin is a progressive biological process with measurable decline in structure and function that reflects both genetic programming and environmental exposure.  Over time, this shows as thinning of the epidermis (the most superficial renewing layer of the skin), loss of elasticity, of the dermis dullness, fine lines and uneven pigmentation. Beneath these visible signs lies an intricate cascade of molecular events resulting from both internal and external factors, known as intrinsic and extrinsic ageing respectively.

Intrinsic ageing, the inevitable consequence of chronological time and genetic regulation, is characterised by a steady reduction in cellular turnover and repair efficiency due to accumulation of DNA changes and epigenetic dysregulation over time. This affects all layers of the skin.

In the upper layers of the skin, Keratinocyte cells (the cells responsible for the skin’s barrier function and waterproofing) migrate more slowly from the basal layer to the stratum corneum, meaning the epidermis renews itself less frequently.  Alongside this, lipid (fat) production in the epidermis, particularly of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, declines with time, compromising the barrier’s ability to retain moisture and protect against irritants.  Multiple studies have demonstrated a decline in ceramide content and alterations in chain length and saturation of epidermal lipids, resulting in a barrier that is both structurally disorganised and functionally impaired. This biochemical imbalance is one of the earliest detectable signs of ageing skin long before wrinkles or sagging become visible and has a direct impact on how skin responds to topical treatments. A disrupted barrier increases transepidermal water loss (TEWL), triggers compensatory inflammation and makes the skin more reactive to environmental stressors

At the dermo-epidermal junction (the interface between the upper, renewing epidermal layer and the deeper structural dermis, which functions as both a structural and biochemical interface) flattens with age, reducing the exchange of nutrients and signalling molecules between the dermis and epidermis.  In this layer, basal cells and melanocytes (the pigment producing cells) accumulate damage over time, resulting in dysfunction. This appears as hyperpigmentation and sun spots.

Within the dermis itself, fibroblasts (the key producers of the structural molecules of the skin including collagen and elastin) become sluggish and ‘senescent’ (senescence meaning the process of ageing), accumulating oxidative and genetic damage that leads to a net loss of extracellular matrix proteins. This explains why aged skin loses its tensile strength and appears more fragile: the scaffolding quite literally weakens.  

Intrinsic ageing sets the stage but extrinsic ageing (i.e. ageing caused by environmental insults such as ultraviolet radiation, particulate pollution, glycation, smoking and chronic inflammation) accelerates the entire process.  

Ultraviolet (UV) light is the most studied culprit in extrinsic ageing. Skin exposure to UV light generates reactive oxygen species (‘ROS’ - oxidised molecules) within fibroblasts and other skin cells, leading to oxidative damage to DNA, proteins and lipids both in the skin cells and in the dermal matrix.  ROS also activate matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes that degrade collagen and elastin fibres and direct UV damage to these structural protein results in dermal thinning and the coarse texture characteristic of photoaged skin. Airborne pollutants and blue light add further stress, perpetuating chronic low-grade inflammation (fashionably referred to as ‘inflammageing’).These insults also disrupt mitochondrial function, impairing the skin’s immune response and slowing DNA repair in dermal fibroblasts and other skin cells, effectively fast-forwarding cellular ageing.

The net result of all this is not simply ‘old skin’ but skin that has lost its capacity for homeostasis (its ability to repair itself and maintain equilibrium). It becomes drier, less elastic, slower to heal, and more prone to inflammation and sensitivity.

How can skincare reverse ageing?

The path to healthy ageing, based on our current knowledge lies in supporting its natural regulatory systems, defending against oxidative and inflammatory stress as well as protecting and enhancing it’s natural barrier functions. Contemporary skincare can provide all of these functions as well as enhancing other physiological mechanisms to further benefit the skin.  While skincare cannot restore subcutaneous fat or reverse deep structural damage, it can significantly improve epidermal integrity, dermal collagen production, hydration and pigmentation uniformity, i.e. all the hallmarks of youthful skin. 

There are a number of useful ways that contemporary skincare formulations can improve and reverse the signs of ageing

Sun Protection

Daily sun protection remains unequivocally the single most important and well-supported intervention in any skincare or anti-ageing regimen.  If you are doing nothing else, this will make the most significant difference to your skin over the longer term as UV exposure is the most important factor in extrinsic ageing. Indeed, no ingredient, not retinoids, not antioxidants, not peptides, comes close to the volume or strength of evidence supporting broad-spectrum UV protection as the primary defence against premature ageing. 

Decades of epidemiological and histological data show that up to 80–90% of visible facial ageing results from chronic ultraviolet exposure rather than intrinsic ageing alone (Gilchrest, 2013). Ultraviolet A light (‘UVA’, 320–400 nm) penetrates deeply into the dermis, activating ROS and increases production of matrix metalloproteinases (‘MMPs’) - the enzymes responsible for collagen and elastin breakdown in the dermis (Rittié & Fisher, 2002), as well as causing direct damage to the DNA in skin cells. Ultraviolet B (‘UVB’, 290–320 nm), while less deeply penetrating, directly induces DNA photodamage that accelerates keratinocyte ageing and melanocyte (pigment cell) dysfunction.

Longitudinal data from Australian studies show that individuals who use daily SPF 15 or higher experience 24% less skin ageing over 4.5 years compared with non-users, independent of other lifestyle factors (Hughes et al., 2013). Importantly, consistent daily use (not occasional application!) is the variable that confers protection: intermittent or inadequate SPF allows subclinical photodamage to accumulate, resulting in chronic low-grade inflammation, pigmentary irregularity and dermal thinning.

Sunscreen not only prevents further injury but allows endogenous repair systems (nucleotide excision repair, antioxidant enzyme activity) to operate unopposed, thereby stabilising the skin’s architecture over time. In clinical practice, I often describe SPF as the foundation on which all other skincare sits: without it, every other intervention works against a background of ongoing injury.  For this reason, daily broad-spectrum sun protection ideally with SPF 50 and high UVA rating, like my All Day Long daily moisturiser is the single most evidence-based and biologically rational cornerstone of any modern skincare routine.

The Second Line of Defence: Antioxidants and Retinoids

Whilst daily sunscreen is the defensive shield, antioxidants are the reinforcement behind it. When applied in the morning, antioxidants complement SPF by addressing the oxidative and infrared components of solar exposure that sunscreens alone cannot mitigate, producing additive photoprotection.  In fact, several controlled studies show that combining topical antioxidants with SPF results in significantly lower UV-induced erythema and molecular damage than sunscreen use alone (Lin et al., 2003).  Even the best SPF cannot block all solar radiation; indeed around 30% of UVA and visible light still penetrate the epidermis with use of SPF50, generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage cellular proteins, lipids and DNA.

Topical antioxidants neutralise this oxidative load before it causes lasting injury. These include molecules such as Vitamins C and E, glutathione derivatives, niacinamide and coenzyme Q10.  Vitamin C (particularly in its lipid-stable tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate form found in my new Stellar eye cream) not only scavenges ROS but also regenerates oxidised vitamin E, enhances collagen synthesis and suppresses tyrosinase activity, improving both firmness and tone (Pullar, Carr & Vissers, 2017).  Niacinamide (Vitamin B5) is an important skincare ingredient that has gained significant attention in the last few years due to its multitude of benefits including boosting intracellular NAD⁺, supporting DNA repair enzymes and barrier lipid synthesis (Bissett et al., 2005).

At night, antioxidant activity takes a reparative turn. Retinoids (derivatives of vitamin A) operate as biological response modifiers, binding to nuclear retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and modulating gene transcription. They increase collagen synthesis, normalise keratinocyte differentiation and suppress matrix metalloproteinase production, effectively reversing some histological features of photoageing. In multiple split-face and histological studies, consistent retinoid use for 12 weeks has been shown to increase dermal collagen content and epidermal thickness (Mukherjee et al., 2006).  Using antioxidants by day and retinoids by night thus provides round-the-clock oxidative management: daytime prevention, nocturnal repair. 

For this reason, I always recommend twice-daily antioxidant use: a protective serum formulation (Good Morning) in the morning before your SPF step, and a reparative retinoid-based night cream (Good Night) to enhance overnight repair.

Repair and Brightening: The Crossover Between Defence and Renewal with Antioxidants

A growing body of dermatological research has highlighted that certain antioxidants not only protect against environmental injury but also stimulate regenerative pathways within the skin, bridging the gap between prevention of future damage and active repair of ageing and damaged skin. This crossover effect is central to how I formulate my products as many actives have multiple effects in terms of protection, repair and stimulation of certain cellular mechanisms in the skin.

Indeed, there are numerous antioxidant ingredients that defend in the short term while also driving long-term improvement in tone, texture and firmness.  Vitamin C, for instance, exemplifies this duality. Not only does it neutralise reactive oxygen species generated by UV and pollution, but it also simultaneously upregulates production of collagen, improving dermal density over time (Pullar, Carr & Vissers, 2017). Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) further enhances this synergy, acting in lipid membranes to limit peroxidation while supporting the antioxidant recycling of vitamin C  a process that enhances both the photoprotection and epidermal repair stimulated by Vitamin C (Thiele et al., 1999). 

Niacinamide operates along similar lines: it reduces oxidative stress through it’s antioxidant activity but also has a function of reducing hyperpigmentation by inhibiting transfer of the pigment melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes (it interrupts the transfer of vesicles known as melanosomes). Additionally, niacinamide, which is in all of my daily trio products, also stabilises the skin’s barrier and reduces inflammation  (Bissett et al., 2005). 

Collectively, these mechanisms illustrate why well-formulated antioxidant systems don’t simply ‘defend’ the skin. My own formulations are built around this intersection, drawing on complex antioxidant networks that simultaneously protect, repair and renew, allowing one product to perform across multiple biological layers of skin health rather than serving a single, narrow purpose.

How Supporting the Skin’s Microbiome and Barrier Builds Healthier, Stronger Skin

Ageing skin is increasingly viewed as a reflection of chronic barrier impairment and microbial imbalance. The next generation of formulations focus less on aggressive resurfacing and more on restoring function, supporting the skin’s own ecosystem to defend, repair and renew. A balanced microbiome reduces inflammation at the source, while a fortified barrier ensures those improvements are sustained. Together, they create the biological foundation that allows antioxidants, retinoids and peptides to work more effectively.

We all realise, I’m sure, that healthy skin begins with balance, and in the skin that balance depends on the interplay between the epidermal barrier and the skin’s microbiome. Far from being separate systems, these two are inseparable, symbiotic partners: the microbiome protects the barrier and the barrier sustains the microbiome. Together they form the skin’s frontline defence, regulating inflammation, hydration, and immune response.  When this equilibrium falters, everything downstream suffers: sensitivity increases, repair slows and the visible hallmarks of ageing become more pronounced.

The microbiome is a highly diverse and metabolically active community of bacteria, fungi and viruses that perform essential regulatory functions (https://drdavidjack.com/blogs/under-the-microscope/the-real-science-of-skin-barrier-repair-why-ceramides-and-fatty-acids-matter). The interactions of these microbes with the skin is known to regulate innate immunity, suppress chronic inflammation and maintain an environment in which the epidermis can renew efficiently.  When disrupted, whether by harsh cleansing, pollution, antibiotic use or stress, this microbial homeostasis collapses, leading to barrier fragility, redness and micro-inflammation, a biochemical precursor to accelerated ageing. The most effective approach, therefore, is not sterilisation but support of this delicate balance.  Ingredients such as prebiotics (like inulin and alpha-glucan oligosaccharides) act as nutrient sources for beneficial microbes, while postbiotics (fermentation filtrates and lysates) deliver bioactive compounds that modulate microbial composition and reinforce tight-junction proteins. T his dual action encourages the skin to self-regulate reducing inflammation and improving visible clarity without aggressive intervention.

Parallel to this microbial ecosystem lies the stratum corneum, the lipid-rich matrix of dead and dying corneocytes (skin cells), ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Think of it as both shield and sensor: it prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and provides biochemical cues to deeper layers.  As skin ages, the synthesis of these lipids declines and the junction between the epidermis and dermis flattens, impairing communication and nutrient flow.  Modern barrier-supportive skincare aims to restore the architecture of the barrier by replacing or stimulating key lipids.  Formulations containing ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids in physiologic ratios (3:1:1) like my Afterglow cleanser have been shown to repair barrier function and normalise TEWL within days (Sfriso et al., 2020).  Meanwhile, as mentioned above, niacinamide enhances endogenous ceramide production and strengthens the epidermis, which improves hydration and reduces sensitivity (Bissett et al., 2005).  Humectants such as glycerol and hyaluronic acid complement this by drawing water into the upper layers, maintaining osmotic balance and cushioning cellular structures.

Why the Daily Trio is Built on Three Fundamental Products

I distilled a routine into three steps because the literature consistently shows that sustained intervention over months (not days!) is what produces visible and meaningful change.  In my years as a clinician, I found that skin health improves when patients stick with a regimen, whether that be a medication or a treatment course.  The same should apply to skincare.   The logic behind designing the Daily Skin Trio was a rational, evidence-based, minimalist hierarchy that mirrors how we approach tissue healing in the clinic. Formulations are rich and complex but the routine remains simple.  Habit is the largest variable in success: a ten step routine used erratically yields far less than three well-chosen products applied consistently.

The first product, our Good Morning serum, concentrates advanced antioxidant actives including a stabilised vitamin C derivative (at 10% concentration), niacinamide, azeloyl diglycinate (a derivative of the anti-inflammatory antioxidant, azelaic acid) and hyaluronic acid among others.  These ingredients act to reduce oxidative damage, inhibit melanin transfer, boost barrier lipids and support collagen synthesis. The second product, the day-cream with SPF 50+ and blue-light filters, serves as the protective shield: blocking UV, visible and infrared damage, quelling pollution-induced inflammatory insults and reinforcing the barrier with lipids and niacinamide. The third product, the night cream, uses a modern ‘granactive’ retinoid, peptides, niacinamide and barrier-support lipids (all in one) to stimulate cellular renewal and collagen remodelling while the skin is in its repair mode overnight.

Together these three actives target the core biological drivers of ageing: oxidative stress, barrier breakdown, collagen decline and pigmentary change and they do so with the products working in synergy.

Of course, many skin types present with additional concerns: pigmentation, rosacea, acne scarring, skin laxity. These aren’t ignored, but rather built on top of the baseline.  The beauty of the Trio is that it establishes the bedrock: once cleanse-protect-repair is consistent, then booster steps (e.g., specific pigment inhibitors with our Yellow Peel, and targeted products for dehydrated skin such as our nourishing Skin Cushion ) can layer on without distressing the system.  In other words: you first create a skin environment that can tolerate and benefit from extras.  This tiered approach mirrors surgical planning: first the scaffold, then the refinement.

In a world of skincare overload, I believe simplicity is radical. The Daily Skin Trio is about giving your skin exactly what it needs, consistently, with formulations that do more behind the scenes so you can do less overall. You’ll reduce fuss, improve adherence, minimise waste and, most importantly, give your skin a structure to thrive on. Ageing isn’t a sprint; it’s a marathon, so consistency beats hype. Hands down.

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