product image

select caret down

Mesotox: The Korean Glass Skin Injectable

BY DR. DAVID JACK
Mesotox: The Korean Glass Skin Injectable
UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

There is a particular magic in aesthetic medicine that occurs when something long-trusted is put to work in an unexpected way. A product we’ve used for years to soften expression suddenly reveals an entirely different talent when handled differently and what once felt purely functional (in the broadest of senses!) becomes something far more nuanced and textural. Mesotox, a technique that sits at the intersection somewhere between classic mesotherapy and traditional neuromodulator injections, belongs firmly in that sweet spot. While the name has been circulating in aesthetic medicine circles for the better part of a decade, it is only now gaining mainstream traction as patients look for results that are less about immobilising muscles and more about refining overall skin quality. In many ways, it marks a return to the ethos of deliberate understatement that patients increasingly want: smoother texture, less visible pores, a calmness to expression but without that waxy rigidity that social media often mistakes for good work.

What makes mesotox so compelling is its promise of surface-level luminosity with little to no downtime. It is, quite literally, skin-focused finesse.

What is Mesotox?

Mesotox grew out of the mesotherapy tradition, which originated in France in the 1950s under Dr. Michel Pistor. Mesotherapy was initially medical rather than cosmetic, using micro-doses of medication delivered superficially to target localised concerns. Cocktails of vitamins and micronutrients, as well as hyaluronic acid were usually used.  By the early 2000s, aesthetic doctors began experimenting with highly diluted neuromodulators (i.e. neurotoxins) placed intradermally rather than intramuscularly, observing that these micro-doses subtly softened fine lines, reduced sebum production and even improved facial redness without altering muscle movement in any dramatic way. It should be noted that this is an off label use of neurotoxins so none of the contents of this article should be considered medical advice.

The technique migrated from South Korea (long considered the incubator of micro-injection methods) into Europe and the United States, where it was further refined. The principle has stayed consistent: use far smaller amounts of neuromodulator than would be used for brow lines or crow’s feet, disperse it widely across the surface of the skin and inject only into the dermis rather than the underlying muscle.

The goal is not to ‘freeze’ anything. Instead, it is to reduce micro-contractions, soften superficial creasing, and give the skin a sort of velvety evenness usually associated with particularly good lighting.

How Mesotox Is Performed: Technique, Precision and the Art of Restraint

A mesotox treatment typically involves dozens of micro-injections placed extremely superficially into the dermis rather than into the muscles of the face. Unlike traditional neuromodulator injections, which are aimed at discrete muscles responsible for deeper expression lines, mesotox is delivered using either a fine manual needle or a device designed for mesotherapy-style stamping.

The liquid itself is a diluted form of a licensed neuromodulator, mixed with saline and sometimes other skin-supporting ingredients such as vitamins and hyaluronic acid (we use our mesotherapy blends) depending on practitioner preference. The treatment is spread across areas such as:

  • The cheeks
  • The forehead (when traditional muscle treatment is not desired)
  • Around the mouth
  • Under the eyes
  • Along the jawline and chin
  • The neck and even décolletage

Patients often describe the sensation as mild pricking rather than anything painful and the downtime rarely exceeds a few hours of pin-prick redness.

Where classic neuromodulator work is deeply anatomical mesotox is almost textural. It is a treatment for the surface rather than the scaffolding of the face.

How Mesotox Works

Neuromodulators work by blocking the release of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine at the ‘neuromuscular junction’ (i.e. the point where the nerves touch the muscles of the face), preventing muscle contraction.  When used intramuscularly, the effect reduces dynamic wrinkling. When placed intradermally, however, the action is more diffuse and more delicate.

Two mechanisms appear particularly relevant in Mesotox:

1. Reduction of Micro-Contractions in the Dermis

Micro-movements in the superficial musculature can etch fine lines over time at the dermal insertion points of the superficial muscles of the face. By dampening this activity very gently, mesotox softens fine crêpey lines and makes the uppermost layers of skin appear smoother.  Indeed, studies have demonstrated that intradermal neuromodulator injections retain the ability to modulate muscular activity, albeit at a diminished intensity, leading to improvements in superficial wrinkles without significantly affecting facial movement.

2. Normalisation of Sebum Production and Sweat Gland Activity

One of the lesser-known but highly valued effects of mesotox is its ability to reduce excessive sebum (oil) and sweat in targeted areas. This can over time visibly shrink the appearance of pores and improve persistent shine, especially on the nose and cheeks.  Research into intradermal neuromodulator administration has shown statistically significant reductions in sebum levels, likely through cholinergic blockade of sebaceous gland activity. This is particularly popular for patients wanting a smoother finish for photography or for those prone to oiliness.

Combined, these effects create an unusually flattering change: softer, more even, more refined skin but without any sense of heaviness.

What Is Mesotox Good For?

Mesotox occupies a very particular niche in the aesthetic world, it is not, despite what the name might imply, a replacement for classic neuromodulator treatments, nor is it intended to correct deeper structural concerns such as pronounced static wrinkles or true skin laxity. It’s power lies instead in the most superficial layers of the skin, where micro-movements, higher levels oil production (and therefore size of pores) and textural irregularities quietly shape how fresh or how fatigued our faces appear.

Where mesotox truly shines is in its ability to soften the fine, almost gossamer-like lines that collect on the cheeks and under the eyes. These are areas patients often believe are unfixable, having been told repeatedly that nothing can be safely injected there without risking heaviness or distortion. Yet, by working just within the dermis rather than the muscle beneath, mesotox smooths this delicate terrain, lending a rested quality that is noticeable but never obvious.

Its second gift of mesotox is its effect on pores and oiliness. For patients plagued by persistent shine or a tendency toward enlarged pores, particularly across the T-zone, mesotox can be very effective where other treatments such as chemical peels may struggle. By reducing cholinergic stimulation of the sebaceous glands, the skin produces less oil and pores appear more refined over time. 

Because of this, mesotox has become something of a pre-event secret weapon. Within a matter of days, the skin gains a subtle luminosity, not glossy, not filtered but simply smoother, calmer and more photogenic. Patients often describe it as looking ‘HD-ready’, which is perhaps the most 21st-century endorsement imaginable!

The neck is another area where mesotox can help. The horizontal ‘necklace lines’ that bother so many people rarely respond elegantly to traditional injectables.  Heavier treatments can look clumsy or overdone. Mesotox, however, with its feather-light dosing can soften these lines without altering the natural movement of the neck, creating a gently refreshed outline rather than a conspicuous intervention.

Finally, there is an emerging but fascinating application in cases of facial redness, particularly erythema associated with rosacea. Early studies suggest that superficial neuromodulator placement may help moderate vascular over-reactivity, leading to reduced flushing in selected patients. This must be approached with care as rosacea is a temperamentally unpredictable condition, but when used judiciously the improvement can be notable for some.

In all of these scenarios, the common thread is refinement rather than hardcore reconstruction. Mesotox is about finessing the surface the texture, the sheen, the micro-movement rather than altering the architecture of the face. 

Downtime, Expectations and Longevity

Downtime is generally minimal: some pin-point redness for a few hours and occasionally tiny bumps that settle within 24 hours (just like mesotherapy). Bruising is uncommon due to the superficial depth.

Results are typically visible within 4–7 days and last around 8–12 weeks.

Many patients combine mesotox with polynucleotides, light fractional laser or PDRNs, as the modalities complement each other well: one improves texture and pore refinement while the others remodel collagen.

Who Is (and isn’t) Suitable for Mesotox?

Mesotox suits a wide spectrum of patients looking for a refined, fresher-looking complexion without venturing into anything that alters their natural expressiveness. It works particularly well for those whose skin tends toward oiliness or visible pores, as well as individuals preparing for events where a calm, even, light-responsive finish is desirable.

There are, however, circumstances in which this technique is less appropriate. Deep-set wrinkles that have been etched in by decades of repetitive movement generally require conventional deeper muscular treatment or carefully placed filler, as mesotox works too superficially to make meaningful change at that level. Similarly, significant volume loss or true skin laxity sits firmly in the realm of structural treatments rather than dermal micro-dosing. And, as with all injectables, it should be avoided in the presence of infection or during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Ultimately, the success of mesotox rests on expert judgement, i.e. knowing when it will elevate the skin and when a different modality will achieve a more authentic and satisfying result.

My Own Approach: Why Technique Matters

Mesotox is a treatment, like everything else in aesthetics, where finesse is everything.  The dilution, the depth, the patterning, the anatomical understanding, all of these play into whether the skin looks simply ‘well’ or whether it falls flat. In my clinics in London and Edinburgh, I tend to individualise dilution ratios according to skin type. Thicker, sebaceous skin responds very differently from finer, mature skin.  Likewise, treating the under-eye area requires a far lighter hand than treating the glabella.

I also combine mesotox with regenerative treatments, particularly polynucleotides or fractional laser because the synergy works well. Think of mesotox as the surface polish and regenerative work as the deeper renovation. To book in for a consultation click here.


References

Shah, A.R. (2008). Use of intradermal botulinum toxin to reduce sebum production and facial pore size. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(9), pp.847–850. Available at: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19112798/ [Accessed 4 December 2025]

Rose, A.E. and Goldberg, D.J. (2013). Safety and efficacy of intradermal injection of botulinum toxin for the treatment of oily skin. Dermatologic Surgery, 39(3 Pt 1), pp.443–448. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1111/dsu.12097 [Accessed 4 December 2025]

Park, J.-Y., Cho, S.I., Hur, K. and Lee, D.H. (2021). Intradermal microdroplet injection of diluted incobotulinumtoxin-A for sebum control, face lifting, and pore size improvement. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 20(1), pp.49–54. Available at: https://jddonline.com/articles/intradermal-microdroplet-injection-of-diluted-incobotulinumtoxin-a-for-sebum-control-face-lifting-an-S1545961621P0049X [Accessed 4 December 2025]

Atwa, E.M., Nasr, M.M. and Ebrahim, H.M. (2020). Evaluation of intradermal injection of botulinum toxin A for facial lifting. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 13(12), pp.22–26. Available at: https://jcadonline.com/intradermal-injection-botulinum-facial-lifting/ [Accessed 4 December 2025]

Rho, N.-K. and Gil, Y.-C. (2021). Botulinum neurotoxin type A in the treatment of facial seborrhea and acne: evidence and a proposed mechanism. Toxins, 13(11), 817. Available at: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34822601/ [Accessed 4 December 2025]

Fabi, S.G., Park, J.-Y., Goldie, K. and Wu, W. (2023). Microtoxin for improving pore size, skin laxity, sebum control, and scars: a roundtable on integrating intradermal botulinum toxin type A microdoses into clinical practice. Aesthetic Surgery Journal, 43(9), pp.1015–1024. Available at: https://academic.oup.com/asj/article/43/9/1015/7064988 [Accessed 4 December 2025].

Park, K.Y. et al. (2018). A pilot study to evaluate the efficacy and safety of treatment with botulinum toxin in patients with recalcitrant and persistent erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. Annals of Dermatology, 30(6), pp.688–693. Available at: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33911508/ [Accessed 4 December 2025].