Dark Circles, Eye Wrinkles & Hollow Eyes in Men

There’s a particular kind of tiredness that has nothing to do with sleep.  You can be entirely rested, yet still look as though you’ve been up all night negotiating a merger. The culprit almost always is the skin around the eyes.  For men in particular, this area ages in ways that feel disproportionate to the rest of the face: it hollows, darkens and creases, making even the healthiest among us look perpetually knackered.

At my clinics, this is one of the most common concerns men come to discuss.  Most men come in wanting to look how they actually feel: alert, calm and well rather than just aesthetics.  Through subtle treatments, we can soften shadows, smooth fine lines and restore lost structure, all while preserving a naturally masculine appearance.

In this article I’m going to outline what you can do to improve dark circles and ageing around the eyes, specifically for men, from skincare to surgery. If you would like a more personalised approach, why not book in for a consultation with one of our experts in one of my clinics.

Why the Eyes Age First

The skin around the eyes is structurally different from anywhere else on the body. It’s thin (barely half a millimetre in thickness), almost devoid of sebaceous glands and supported by a lattice of delicate muscles that move thousands of times a day.  Every blink, smile or squint gradually and progressively etches micro-folds into this tissue and with time, the supporting scaffolding collagen, elastin and subcutaneous fat, begins to thin.

After about the age of 25, collagen production decreases by roughly one per cent each year.  Elastin fibres, which give the skin its recoil, become fragmented, while the fat pads that once smoothed the transition from eyelid to cheek begin to reduce in volume. The orbital bone itself also remodels and subtly recedes, creating a shallow groove known as the tear trough. The combined result is hollowing, loss of support and a shadow that no amount of concealer will really disguise.

Men in particular tend to notice this earlier than women because the male eye socket is typically deeper and the overlying skin somewhat thinner than in women. The very features that create definition in youth can later exaggerate fatigue.  Genetics play a role too: darker phototypes, especially Mediterranean, South Asian or Middle Eastern skin are more prone to periorbital pigmentation the brown or bluish tint often mistaken for ‘tired eyes’.

The Science of Dark Circles in Men

Dark circles are not a single entity, despite being universally referred to as such.  Rather, they result a constellation of overlapping structural, vascular and pigmentation changes that occur both in the skin and the deeper supporting tissues as we age. In clinic I rarely see one cause in isolation; most patients have some combination of all three, which is why a generic moisturising eye cream without specific actives or ‘one-shot’ treatment rarely works. There are several contributing factors: 

• Vascular Shadowing

• One of the most common causes of dark circles is the visibility of the sub-dermal venous plexus. The skin beneath the eyes is only about half a millimetre thick and with age, it becomes even thinner as collagen (types I and III) and elastin degrade. This process is driven by both intrinsic ageing and external factors like UV exposure, pollution and sleep deprivation. As the dermis thins, the network of capillaries and venules beneath becomes more visible, imparting that blue-violet tint typical of tired-looking eyes.
• Unlike pigment-related discolouration, vascular dark circles fluctuate: they appear worse after poor sleep, alcohol or dehydration, I.e. anything that causes vasodilation or reduced lymphatic drainage. Under artificial lighting, which accentuates cooler tones, the effect can look particularly pronounced.  In some men, increased vascular fragility or congestion from allergies or nasal obstruction can make matters worse, because venous return from the periorbital area is already sluggish.

• Pigmentation

• True pigmentation dark circles are the result of increased melanin within the epidermis or even the dermis of the skin around the eyes. They are more common in men with darker skin phototypes (Fitzpatrick IV–VI) and are often hereditary. The causes can be multiple: chronic rubbing from allergic rhinitis (‘allergic shiners’), habitual eye-rubbing, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or simply a genetically higher baseline of melanocyte activity.
• There’s also a phenomenon known as ‘dermal melanin incontinence’, where pigment that should be confined to the upper skin layers leaks into the dermis, where it’s taken up by scavenger cells (macrophages). This creates a persistent brownish or greyish discolouration that doesn’t respond to sleep or hydration and is often resistant to lightening creams. Interestingly, studies show that long-term use of fragranced or irritating skincare around the eyes can exacerbate this by repeatedly disrupting the barrier and triggering low-grade inflammation.

• Structural Hollowing

• Perhaps most visually significant factor is anatomical: as we age, the bone of the maxilla and orbital rim remodels and subtly recedes. In women, this is strongly accelerated by the menopause, but in men it’s more of a gradual decline. The overlying fat pads that once bridged the junction between the lower eyelid and the cheek also shrink and descend, leaving a groove known as the tear-trough deformity. This groove catches light differently from the rest of the face so what most patients perceive as ‘darkness’ is in fact a physical shadow created by loss of volume, rather than pigment or circulation.
• This structural element is compounded by changes in mid-face support: the malar fat pad descends with age, deepening the trough and elongating the lower eyelid.  In lean men, particularly endurance athletes or those with low body-fat percentages, this hollowing can appear decades earlier. Weight loss, hormonal changes and even facial asymmetry from habitual sleeping positions can accentuate it further. The latter is thought to be due to repeated compression and microvascular occlusion.

• Lifestyle & Systemic Contributors

• Aside from anatomy and genetics, a series of lifestyle factors fan the flames.  Alcohol dehydrates and causes vasodilation; salt-heavy diets lead to periorbital fluid retention, which stretches and weakens the delicate tissue over time.  Poor sleep increases cortisol levels, impairing microcirculation and collagen synthesis, while smoking generates reactive oxygen species that accelerate elastin degradation.  Even excessive screen time contributes, not directly through light exposure, but because it encourages squinting and muscle tension that deepen dynamic lines around the eyes.

• Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Expression

• The creases that appear at the corners of the eyes, the so-called ‘crow’s feet’, come from repeated contraction of the orbicularis oculi muscle. Over time, these dynamic wrinkles become static as collagen fibres fray and the skin loses elasticity - the lines correspond exactly to the insertion of muscle fibres on the dermis, their tension causing localised collagen breakdown. UV exposure accelerates this by upregulating matrix metalloproteinases, enzymes that break down collagen.

How We Treat These Concerns

Treating dark circles and hollow eyes in men is a stepwise process, a stepladder of interventions that build on one another. We start with the foundations: improving skin health, supporting collagen and correcting the factors that make the area look tired in the first place.  From there, we move upwards refining tone, strengthening structure and, when needed, subtly restoring volume or elasticity. It’s this layering of treatments that delivers the most natural, lasting results.

When I treat tired-looking eyes in men the first principle is anatomy. Male faces age differently from female ones. The bone structure is stronger, the orbital rim deeper and the skin itself thicker yet more prone to vascular shadowing. What this means in practice is that the approach has to be entirely different. What works for a woman’s softer mid-face can easily blunt or feminise the natural definition that is associated with a masculine appearance. Men’s eyes should retain movement and texture; the trick is to lift shadows and soften lines without altering expression. Often, even minor changes in skin quality, hydration or mid-face support can dramatically reduce the appearance of dark circles and hollow eyes. The approach with treatments should always focus on enhancing structure so light falls more evenly across the face.

Our approach in clinic always begins with a detailed analysis of the underlying cause whether it’s skin thinning, pigmentation or loss of support beneath the eye. From there, we create a plan tailored to both anatomy and lifestyle. Some men need subtle correction; others benefit from a more regenerative strategy that focuses on strengthening the skin itself over time.  It all starts with skincare though, which everyone can benefit from. The right eye cream: ideally one with caffeine, antioxidants and collagen-stimulating actives, can help maintain results and improve texture between treatments as well as maximising skin health and quality over the longer term.  Crucially, daily UV protection prevents further collagen degradation, which, as I mentioned above, is often the underlying cause of both eye wrinkles and dark circles in men. The two key skincare steps for dark circles are therefore: an active eye cream and UV protection.

In the following sections, I’ll outline the main treatment options for the under-eye area from the simplest skin-focused approaches to more advanced regenerative and structural techniques and explain how each can be tailored to the particular anatomy and concerns of male patients.

• Deep Structural Support

• The foundation of any treatment for dark circles or hollow eyes in men lies the issue of structure.  No amount of skincare will meaningfully correct the shadows caused by volume loss or bone resorption. This is where the tear trough becomes the central focus. Anatomically, it’s a depression formed by the tethering of the orbicularis retaining ligament between the lower eyelid and the cheek, which becomes more apparent with age as the underlying orbital fat pads shrink and the maxillary bone gradually recedes. The overlying skin, already the thinnest on the body, then collapses into this hollow, catching light in a way that exaggerates darkness and fatigue.
• Tear trough filler works by restoring gentle support beneath this groove, using a low-density hyaluronic acid gel placed deeply on or just above the bone.  The goal is not to fill the area to the point of obliteration but to subtly lift the skin enough that it reflects light evenly again by pushing the overlying muscle forwards. Done correctly, the improvement is almost optical a softening of shadow and a return of that smooth transition from eyelid to cheek that characterises a rested, youthful face.
• In male patients, this step demands particular restraint. The male orbital rim is more prominent, the skin thicker and the fat pads distributed differently from those in women. Over-filling can quickly round the under-eye and feminise the mid-face, which is why, in men, I use minimal volume and place it more laterally along the orbital rim rather than directly in the medial trough. This keeps the contour sharp and the result invisible to everyone except the patient.
• The filler itself is critical. I tend to use a light, cohesive hyaluronic acid with good tissue integration and low hydrophilicity, known as Teosyal Redensity 2. This means it attracts less water post-injection and avoids the ‘puffy’ look men fear. Placement is deep: supraperiosteal ensuring smooth distribution under the orbicularis muscle, and reducing the risk of vascular compromise.
• Results can last between 9 and 12 months.

• Regenerative & Cellular Repair

• Once structural support has been restored, the next layer in treating dark circles and eye wrinkles in men is regenerating the skin itself. This is the biological step of the stepladder where we coax the skin back into behaving as it once did, as opposed to simply patching over the signs of age. I often describe this stage as teaching the skin to behave like its younger self again. The aim here is improving skin quality: thicker, better-hydrated, more elastic skin that reflects light cleanly and resists fatigue.
• Since the skin beneath the eyes is very thin and contains relatively few sebaceous (oil) glands, this makes it more vulnerable to dehydration, collagen depletion and microvascular congestion. As we age, fibroblast activity slows dramatically so the processes responsible for producing collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid become much less robust.  This is what gives rise to the papery, crepey texture men often describe as ‘tired skin’.  Restoring optimal cellular activity is therefore fundamental to improving texture, elasticity and even pigmentation.
• Polynucleotides have become one of the most exciting tools in regenerative aesthetic medicine in recent years for the periorbital area. Derived from purified DNA fragments (often of salmon origin, though entirely biocompatible), these molecules stimulate fibroblast proliferation, improve tissue oxygenation and enhance microcirculation. They don’t act as fillers as they don’t add volume, but instead trigger the skin’s innate repair mechanisms, leading to thicker dermis, improved elasticity and better hydration. Recent histological studies show that regular polynucleotide treatment increases both Type I and Type III collagen density while reducing oxidative stress within the extracellular matrix. Clinically, this translates to smoother texture, less translucency and diminished vascular show, precisely the issues that make dark circles appear worse in men. Over a course of several sessions, the change is cumulative: the skin gradually becomes denser and brighter, the fine crêpiness softens and the look of fatigue starts to lift. In men where fillers are perhaps not the best option, this gentle regenerative approach is ideal
• Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) is another key biostimulator treatment for the under-eye area. Unlike fillers or synthetic stimulators, PRP works entirely with your own biology, being derived from your own blood. The process involves taking a small sample of blood, spinning it in a centrifuge to isolate the plasma (the layer rich in platelets and growth factors) and then reintroducing it into the skin through microinjections. Platelets contain over 800 bioactive proteins, including platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF), transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). These molecules act like molecular messengers, stimulating fibroblast activity, collagen synthesis, angiogenesis (the formation of new blood vessels) and extracellular matrix remodelling. PRP therefore encourages the skin to repair and rebuild, increasnig dermal thickness, reducing the visibility of fine lines and improving the dull, slightly translucent tone that makes the area look fatigued. It can also help refine skin texture and reduce mild pigmentation over time through improved microcirculation and oxygenation.
• Hyaluronic acid skin boosters - alongside polynucleotides, hyaluronic acid skin boosters (like our Bright Eyes treatment) can play a complementary role. Unlike fillers, these are ultra-light formulations combining uncross linked hyaluronic acid with vitamins and minerals designed for deep hydration and stimulation of fibroblasts through mechanical stretch, a process known as mechanotransduction. They improve dermal elasticity, smooth micro-wrinkles and enhance reflectivity, especially in men who experience dullness or dehydration around the eyes from long hours in dry environments or frequent travel.
• Other collagen-stimulating treatments such as calcium hydroxyapatite (such as Radiesse) or poly-L-lactic acid (such as Sculptra) in very dilute form can be used in selected cases to subtly thicken the dermis without altering shape. Around the eyes it must be noted that there is a risk of granuloma formation and lumpiness with these treatments so they should be undertaken with great caution.  As such we do not offer these treatments in my clinics for the periorbital area. 

• Muscle Modulation & Fine Lines around the eyes

• Once structure and skin quality have been addressed, the next step in rejuvenating tired eyes in men is managing the muscle activity that causes fine lines: chiefly the orbicularis oculi, the circular muscle that frames the eye and creates those radiating creases known as ‘crow’s feet’. These lines are not inherently a bad thing - signatures of expression, laughter and emotion - but as collagen levels decline and the skin loses elasticity, the repeated folding starts to leave deeper, more permanent imprints.
• In men, these lines often appear deeper and more defined than in women, owing to greater muscle mass and a thicker dermis. They can lend a rugged charm to the face up to a point, but when exaggerated, they contribute to the impression of fatigue and age. Treating them effectively requires subtle modulation of movement, not elimination.
• Botulinum toxin type A remains the gold standard for treating dynamic lines in this region. This works by temporarily relaxing the muscle fibres responsible for repetitive creasing, allowing the overlying skin to recover and smooth out as dermal collagen regenerates. The effect is cumulative over time, with each treatment helping to prevent further etching of lines, while preserving a natural range of expression. For men, the challenge lies in dosing and distribution. Too much, and the result can look incongruously still, even slightly ‘off’. My approach is to use conservative doses placed strategically to reduce contraction around the outer canthus and lateral cheek while maintaining a small degree of movement. I often adjust the injection pattern to accommodate the natural vector of movement in the male face, typically a slightly lower and broader spread, respecting the heavier brow and flatter midface. This ensures the eye retains strength and shape rather than lifting excessively, which can appear feminising. By softening lateral tension, the area around the eyes appears more open and rested.
• In combination with earlier structural and regenerative steps, it also helps prevent the downward pull that can deepen tear trough shadows and accentuate hollows over time.
• In male patients, this treatment is best repeated two or three times per year and over time, regular muscle modulation helps maintain dermal smoothness and collagen density around the eyes, particularly when combined with diligent skincare and UV protection.

• Surface Refinement & Pigmentation Correction for Dark Circles

• The final visible layer of under-eye ageing sits on the surface: the thin veil of skin that determines how light reflects from the area. Once structure, dermal health and muscle balance have been restored, this layer becomes the finishing touch.  It’s here that we address the tone, texture and reflectivity of the skin.
• Pigmentation-related dark circles differ fundamentally from those caused by hollowing or vascular congestion.  In men, this type of darkness often results from melanin overproduction, either genetically determined or secondary to chronic rubbing, allergies or friction from spectacles.  Over time, melanin can ‘drop’ into the dermis (as mentioned above, somewhat disturbingly labelled ‘melanin incontinence’), creating a greyish or brownish tinge.
• At this stage, the goal is to improve skin reflectivity, i.e. the way light bounces off the under-eye surface. Treatments such as gentle peels and derma planing that gently exfoliate or resurface can help by removing dull, compacted epidermal cells and stimulating new collagen synthesis can help with this. Low-energy laser rejuvenation, such as our NanoFirm laser or IPL (intense pulsed light) can improve fine lines and mottled pigmentation, while enhancing brightness.
• Improving microcirculation also matters. Energy-based devices that use radiofrequency or fractional laser can stimulate neovascularisation (the formation of new, healthy capillaries), improving oxygen delivery to the skin.  This, in turn, reduces the dull, ashen tone that often accompanies chronic congestion in men, which also contributes to the purplish tinge around the eyes in some people.
• Topically, antioxidants such as vitamin C (especially in the form of Tetrahexyldecly ascorbate (THD Ascorbate), vitamin E and niacinamide remain invaluable. They inhibit tyrosinase activity (the enzyme responsible for melanin production), reduce oxidative stress and promote collagen crosslinking essential for maintaining skin clarity and resilience.  Retinoids, used judiciously, can further stimulate cell turnover and dermal renewal, though I generally recommend lower concentrations for the under-eye area to avoid irritation.
• Equally important is maintaining the skin barrier: compromised barrier function leads to dehydration, irritation and inflammation — all of which exaggerate darkness and fine lines. Ingredients such as ceramides, cholesterol and squalane restore lipid balance, while humectants like glycerin and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid preserve hydration. The cumulative effect is a smoother, brighter, more uniform surface.

• Maintenance & Skincare

• Every treatment, no matter how sophisticated, depends on what happens afterwards. Once structure, regeneration and surface refinement have been achieved, the real work shifts to maintenance: the daily, cumulative habits that determine how long results last and how well the skin continues to function.
• The periorbital skin demands care that’s both consistent and specific due to its anatomical and physiological activity. For men, the priority is simplicity rather than ceremony with a few well-chosen products used properly and regularly doing far more than an elaborate routine done once a week.
• Daily Defence with SPF and Antioxidants is the single most important anti-ageing step in periorbital care. UV radiation accelerates collagen breakdown and increases pigmentation so is the direct biochemical cause of most dark circles, fine lines and loss of tone around the eyes. A broad-spectrum SPF 50 or higher, applied every morning and reapplied during prolonged exposure, remains the most effective way to preserve results from both injectable and regenerative treatments.
• Antioxidants come next. As mentioned above, ingredients such as vitamin C (THD ascorbate), niacinamide, resveratrol and coenzyme Q10 help neutralise free radicals, reduce oxidative stress and support collagen productions.  For the eye area, formulations with lower concentrations and stabilised delivery systems are best tolerated; they brighten pigmentation and subtly tighten the dermis over time.
• At night, the focus shifts to repair. Retinoids used at an appropriate strength remain the gold standard for long-term collagen stimulation and dermal renewal. Low-irritancy derivatives such as granactive retinoid or retinaldehyde can be used around the eyes to promote gentle resurfacing without inflammation. Regular use improves fine lines and overall luminosity, complementing the deeper effects of in-clinic treatments.
• Hydration also matters. The periorbital region lacks sebaceous glands, so an occlusive yet breathable moisturiser is essential to prevent transepidermal water loss. Ingredients such as ceramides, squalane and peptides fortify the barrier and maintain elasticity. This is where a well-formulated eye cream truly earns its keep particularly one that combines barrier support, brightening agents and microcirculatory boosters like caffeine or escin.

I often remind patients that the skin renews itself roughly every 28 days; what you do consistently over those cycles matters far more than any single treatment. The stepladder of periorbital rejuvenation works best when this final step (maintenance and skincare) becomes habit. This is the key difference between results that fade and results that evolve gracefully over time. I developed my Stellar Eye Cream precisely to address all of these issues: strengthening the skin barrier, brightening pigmentation and improving microcirculation in one non-irritating but powerful formula.  It combines granactive retinoid, peptides, caffeine, escin, vitamin C (THD ascorbate) and barrier-repairing lipids to target every layer of the problem from vascular congestion to collagen loss in a single, intelligent step.

The Bottom Line

There’s something quietly unfair about the way men’s eyes give everything away.  You can be perfectly fine - even thriving - and still have people tell you that you look tired.  The combination of late nights, long flights, stress and a few decades of squinting at screens eventually leaves its trace, whether through hollows, fine lines or that subtle greyish tone that no amount of sleep seems to fix. The encouraging truth is that these things are now remarkably easy to improve. Small, precise changes that respect your natural structure can make you look sharper, better rested and less as though life has been running you down.

What’s changed is the approach. We no longer chase impossible smoothness or chase the expressionless faces of the early 2000s; we restore proportion, texture and vitality so that the eyes look fresher but still entirely human. Modern aesthetic medicine has moved well beyond heavy-handed quick fixes to become far more intelligent, using regenerative treatments and subtle adjustments that work with your anatomy resulting in gradual, cumulative and believable results.  

What I like most about treating the eye area in men is how transformative even the smallest improvements can be. Correcting a bit of hollowing, improving skin quality or easing tight muscle movement can lift the entire expression.

If that sounds like the sort of change you’d welcome, book a consultation with one of our specialists. We’ll look at what’s really behind your dark circles or tiredness and design a plan that restores balance to the eyes, discreetly but effectively. You’ll still look entirely yourself, just the version that gotten a full night’s sleep.

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